Cosmetic composition with a volumizing effect

ABSTRACT

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips, containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least:  
     one active agent comprising at least one glycol with a C 4 -C 16  hydrocarbon-based chain and/or a hydroxylated ester resulting from the esterification of polyol and/or of C 4 -C 16  carboxylic acid(s), and one additional agent chosen from essential oils, agents for promoting capillary circulation and temperature regulators, and mixtures thereof.

This non provisional application claims the benefit of FrenchApplication No. 05 13076 filed on Dec. 21, 2005 and U.S. ProvisionalApplication No. 60/757,851 filed on Jan. 11, 2006.

The invention relates to natural makeup for the skin and/or the lips,which is pleasant to wear and is more particularly intended to reinforceits/their natural flesh tint and, as regards the lips, to give them avolumizing effect.

According to the invention, the term “natural makeup” for the skin meansa means for naturally colouring the skin, as opposed to the existingmeans for artificially colouring the skin using self-tanning agents ormelanin synthesis stimulators (pigmentation) and/or makeup agents suchas dyes, pigments or specific fillers capable of giving the skin anoptical coloration effect.

According to the invention, the term “natural makeup” for the lips meansa means for naturally colouring the lips and/or making them look fleshy,as opposed to conventional lip makeup that uses only makeup agents suchas dyes, specific pigments or reflective particles capable of giving thelips an optical coloration and/or volume effect (pouty effect).

According to the invention, the term “naturally colour” meansstimulating the naturally pinkish coloration of the skin and/or thelips.

According to the invention, the term “making fleshy” means increasingthe size and/or volume and/or thickness of the lips and/or remodellingthem and/or making them smooth and/or giving them a more swollen orfleshy appearance.

As regards the latter effect, it is quite clear that it is a constantdemand of a large number of consumers. At the present time, consumershave available only two alternatives: resorting to cosmetic surgery, orusing conventional makeup compositions capable of affording such aneffect by acting on optical phenomena. The first alternative may bedissuasive with regard to its invasive nature, and the second affordsonly a visual effect.

One of the aspects of the present invention is directed, precisely,towards obtaining cosmetic compositions that, firstly, are capable ofaffording a real pouty effect in terms of size and/or volume of thelips, and that, secondly, are combined with a comfort effect for theconsumer.

Consequently, according to one of its aspects, the invention relates toa cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up the skin and/orthe lips, containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least:

one active agent comprising at least one glycol with a C₄-C₁₆hydrocarbon-based chain and/or a hydroxylated ester resulting from theesterification of polyol and/or of C₄-C₁₆ carboxylic acid(s), and

one additional agent chosen from essential oils, agents for promotingcutaneous capillary circulation and temperature regulators, and mixturesthereof.

The term “care” means non-therapeutic care capable of producing aneffect without, however, preventing or correcting dysfunction of thekeratin materials.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the active agent is formedfrom a hydroxylated ester resulting from the esterification of polyoland of C₄-C₁₆ carboxylic acid(s).

According to one embodiment of the invention, the active agent is formedfrom a glycol with a C₇-C₁₄ hydrocarbon-based chain.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the active agent is formedfrom a hydroxylated ester resulting from the esterification of polyoland of C₄-C₁₆ carboxylic acid(s) and of a glycol with a C₄-C₁₆hydrocarbon-based chain.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may for example beintended for topical application.

Another aspect of the invention relates to a method for making up theskin and/or the lips, which is directed towards giving a healthycomplexion effect using a composition in accordance with the invention,and also to a method for caring for and/or making up the lips,comprising the application to the lips of a composition that is also inaccordance with the present invention.

The compositions according to the invention may be used to reinforce thenatural flesh tint of the skin and/or the lips and/or the natural volumeof the lips.

The compositions according to the invention may also be used to afford anaturally healthy complexion, for example by application to the face.The compositions may be applied daily to the entire face to obtain auniform natural complexion. The application may also be limited to,renewed on or reinforced on the cheeks and the cheekbones, for exampleto accentuate the “healthy appearance” effect on particular areas of theface.

In this case, the compositions may be in the form of a skincare base, acare cream (day cream, night cream or anti-wrinkle cream), a makeup baseor a tinted care cream.

The compositions according to the invention may also be used to hide orfade out skin defects, for example bags under and/or shadows around theeyes, to obtain a homogeneous, uniform complexion, of lively, light,natural appearance. They may thus make it possible to homogenize and/orclarify the complexion and/or to reduce the hazy complexion effect.

The compositions may also be used to improve the appearance of the lipsor the contour of the lips, for instance to modify the coloration of thelips or to stimulate their natural coloration, to increase the volume ofthe lips and/or to model them and/or make them smoother. They may thusbe used to make the lips fleshy, for example by increasing the sizeand/or volume and/or thickness of the lips and/or remodel them and/ormake them smooth and/or give them a more swollen or fleshy appearance.

More generally, another aspect of the present invention relates to acosmetic method for reinforcing the natural flesh tint of the skinand/or the lips and/or the natural volume of the lips; and/or for givingthe skin, for example of the face, a healthy appearance; and/or forhomogenizing and/or clarifying the complexion and/or for reducing thehazy complexion effect; and/or for increasing the size and/or volume ofthe lips and/or for modelling them and/or making them smoother; and/orfor stimulating the natural coloration of the lips; and/or for giving ahealthy complexion effect, said cosmetic method comprising at least thestep of applying on skin a composition as disclosed herein.

Depending on the sites of application for which they are intended, thecompositions may be a natural makeup product for the skin in the form ofa skincare base or cream, a makeup base, a tinted cream, a foundation inliquid, semi-solid or powder form, an eye contour care product, aconcealing care serum, a concealer stick or a natural makeup product forthe lips in the form of a lipstick, a liquid gloss, a lipstick paste, alip contour pencil, a lipcare balm or a lip varnish, also known as a liplacquer.

Some of the active agents under consideration according to the inventionare already known for their antiseptic properties and are conventionallyused in this respect in compositions intended to be administered to manor animals as pharmaceutical, nutritional and cosmetic compositions. Thepresence of these compounds ensures stability over time for thecorresponding compositions. Thus, document U.S. Pat. No. 5,690,919describes deodorants comprising glyceride monocaprylate as antimicrobialagent. Similarly, document DE 19 54 19 67 describes aqueous solutionscomprising these same esters as microbicides. More generally, patentU.S. Pat. No. 4,002,775 proposes the use of monoesters of polyol and aC₁₂ aliphatic fatty acid as microbicidal agent in compositions intendedfor nutritional use. These documents do not describe the combination ofan additional agent with the active agents according to the invention.

For its part, the invention results from the demonstration by theinventors that the combination with the active agent of an additionalagent according to the invention makes the wearing of makeup morepleasant and/or contributes towards the desired effect of the activeagent.

Thus, for example concerning the lips, it has been noted that theplacing in contact of the lips with the compositions according to theinvention is pleasant to wear and induces a significant swelling effectcapable of affording the desired fleshy effect.

Active Agent

a) Glycols

The glycol used according to the invention may have a C₄-C₁₆hydrocarbon-based chain and for example has a C₆-C₁₄, C₇-C₁₄ and betterstill C₇-C₁₀ hydrocarbon-based chain.

In one embodiment, in which the glycol is used without polyol ester, theglycol may, for example, have a C₇-C₁₄ hydrocarbon-based chain.

The term “glycol with a C_(x) hydrocarbon-based chain” is intended todenote the compounds of formula (I):

in which R is a C_(x-2) alkyl radical.

The glycol with a hydrocarbon-based chain may have, alone or incombination, a C₈-C₁₀ hydrocarbon-based chain.

It may for example, be caprylyl glycol and for instance the compoundsold under the name Caprylyl Glycol Dermosoft Octiol from Straetmans.

The glycol(s) may be present in these compositions in a content rangingfrom 0.05% to 20%, from 0.1% to 10%, or less than 5% by weight, forexample from 0.1% to 5%, or from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition.

b) Esters

As esters that may be suitable according to the present invention,mention may be made for example of hydroxylated esters resulting fromthe esterification of polyol and of C₄-C₁₆, more particularly C₆-C₁₂,especially C₇-C₁₀ and more particularly C₈-C₉ carboxylic acid(s).

The esters used according to the invention are in a hydroxylated form,i.e. they bear at least one, for example two, or for instance three ormore, hydroxyl functions, the hydroxylated functions being present onthe alcohol residue of the ester.

For example, the esters are C₁₀-C₂₀ and contain at least one fattychain.

In general, they are derived from the esterification of at least onehydroxyl function of a polyol with a C₄-C₁₆ carboxylic acid.

According to one embodiment, the esters that may be suitable for thepresent invention may be derived from the esterification of polyol withvarious carboxylic acids, provided that, of course, the ester thusobtained contains at least one and for example two free hydroxylfunctions. It may be a hydroxylated monoester, a hydroxylated diester ora mixture thereof.

Polyols

For the purposes of the invention, the term “polyol” means any organicmolecule comprising in its chemical structure at least two hydroxylgroups (OH).

The polyol may be a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturatedhydrocarbon-based compound bearing at least two and for example at leastthree OH functions.

The polyol may be for instance, a hydrocarbon-based compound bearing atleast two carbon atoms and for example less than 15 carbon atoms, andbearing at least two hydroxyl groups and for instance from 2 to 10hydroxyl groups.

For example, it is a hydrocarbon-based compound containing from 2 to 12carbon atoms and for instance from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

The polyol may be a compound containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms andfrom 2 to 6 hydroxyl functions, such as for instance ethylene glycol,glycerol, 1,2,3-trihydroxyhexane, butanediol, 1,2-propanediol,erytiritol, arabitol, adonitol or dulcitol, pentanediols and for example1,2-pentanediol, and sorbitol, or mixtures thereof.

Glycerol derivatives are, for example, butyl diglycol, polyglyceryl-3diisostearate and castor oil. The polyol may be selected from the groupconsisting of glycerol polymers and copolymers, for instancehexaglycerol and diglycerol.

Glycol derivatives are, for example, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol,hexylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol and pentylene glycol,and those defined above.

The polyol may also be selected from the group consisting of sugars suchas glucose, fructose, xylose, trehalose, sucrose, maltose and lactose,and mixtures thereof.

A mixture polyols may also be used.

The polyol used according to the invention may be selected for instancefrom the group consisting of glycerol and glycols, and derivativesthereof.

The polyols according to the invention may also be selected for examplefrom the group consisting of glycerol and 1,2-propylene glycol, or amixture of two or more of these polyols.

Carboxylic Acid

The carboxylic acid may be linear or branched, and saturated orunsaturated.

For example, it is a linear monocarboxylic acid.

As illustrations of monocarboxylic acids that are suitable for theinvention, mention may be made for instance of butanoic acid, pentanoicacid, hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, nonanoic acid,decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid,tetradecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid andpentadecanoic acid.

As branched acids that may be suitable for the invention, mention may bemade for example of isobutanoic acid, isopentanoic acid, pivalic acid,isohexanoic acid, isoheptanoic acid, isooctanoic acid, dimethyloctanoicacid, isononanoic acid, isodecanoic acid, isoundecanoic acid,isododecanoic acid, isotridecanoic acid, isotetradecanoic acid,isopentadecanoic acid, isohexadecanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid,2-butyloctanoic acid and 2-hexyldecanoic acid.

Hydroxy acids such as 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid,2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid,2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoicacid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytridecanoic acid,2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid and 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid are alsosuitable for present invention.

The acid is for example a C₇-C₁₀ non-hydroxylated acid or heptanoicacid, caprylic acid or capric acid.

Esters selected from the group consisting of monoglyceryl and/ordiglyceryl caprylates, monoglyceryl and/or diglyceryl heptanoates,monoglyceryl and/or diglyceryl caprates, propylene glycol caprylates andpropylene glycol heptanoates, and mixtures thereof, may for example besuitable for the invention.

Thus, one ester suitable for the invention may be monoglycerylcaprylate, or mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made for example of the compounds sold under the nameCapmul MCM or Akoline MCM (glyceryl caprylate/caprate) from Abitec orDermosoft GMCY (glyceryl caprylate) from Straetmans, Capmul 708 G(glyceryl caprylate containing 75% monoesters) from Abitec and Capmul907P (propylene glycol heptanoate) from Abitec, or alternatively Capmul908P (propylene glycol caprylate) from Abitec.

The ester(s) may be present in these compositions in a content rangingfrom 0.05% to 20%, from 0.1% to 10%, or less than 5% by weight, forexample from 0.2% to 5% or from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition.

The esters may be introduced into the cosmetic compositions inaccordance with the present invention according to conventionalprotocols.

Irrespective of the nature of the active agent, it may be present inthese compositions in a content ranging from 0.05% to 20%, from 0.1% to10%, or even less than 5% by weight, for example from 0.2% to 5% or from0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional Agent

The additional agent may be selected from the group consisting ofessential oils and from agents that promote cutaneous capillarycirculation and temperature regulators, and mixtures thereof.

The essential oils may be selected from the group consisting ofessential oil of cinnamon, essential oil of ginger, essential oil ofblack pepper, essential oil of pimento leaves, essential oil ofpeppermint and essential oil of clove, and a mixture or mixturesthereof.

For example, the agents for promoting cutaneous capillary circulationact, after topical application to the lips, via stimulation ofvasodilation and/or an anticoagulant effect and/or an antihypertensiveeffect.

For instance, as agents that act via stimulation of vasodilation and/oran anticoagulant effect and/or an antihypertensive effect, mention maybe made of:

-   -   antihypertensive agents; such as potassium channel openers;    -   phosphodiesterase inhibitors;    -   flavonoids or flavoglycosides;    -   glucosides;    -   plant extracts with vasodilatory properties;    -   vasodilatory peptides; and    -   other vasodilators.

Antihypertensive Agents

Examples that may be mentioned include thiazides; angiotensin receptorinhibitors, for instance losartan or candesartan; prostaglandins, forexample of type E and prostacyclins; ACE inhibitors, for instancecaptopril or ramipril; potassium channel openers, such as minoxidil,cromakalim, diazoxide, nicorandil, pinacidil and derivatives thereof;calcium channel blockers, such as nifedipine, verapamil, diltiazem oramlopidine; adrenergic receptor blockers, such as niacin (nicotinicacid), prazosin and hydralazine; muscarine acetylcholine receptoractivators.

Phosphodiesterase Inhibitors

Examples that may be mentioned include type V phosphodiesteraseinhibitors such as visnadine and esculoside, icarine and derivativesthereof or extracts containing it, as described in patent application WO2005/004 858.

Flavonoids and Flavoglycosides

Examples that may be mentioned include Ginkgo flavoglycosides,amentflavone or dimeric flavones of Ginkgo biloba in free form orcomplexed with phospholipids, as described in patent application WO2005/004 858; hesperidine, α-G-hesperidine, hesperidine methyl chalconeand rutosides (e.g.: β-hydroxyethyl-rutoside and trimethyl-rutoside).

Glucosides

Mention may be made for example of escin, escin beta-sitosterol,adenosine or ATP (adenosine triphosphate); esculoside, hesperidine,alpha-G-hesperidine and rutosides (e.g.: beta-hydroxyethyl-rutoside andtrimethyl-rutoside).

Plant Extracts with Vasodilatory Properties

Examples that may be mentioned include Corsican everlasting (Helichrysumitalicum) as described for example in patent application WO 03/018 730;extracts of blackcurrant (Ribes nigrum), of mistletoe, of epimedium(Epimedium grandiflora), of kiwi (Actinidia chinensis L.), of cypress(Cupressus sempervirens), of melilot (Melissa officinalis), ofperiwinkle (Vinca minora), of Centella asiatica, of Terminalia sericea(sericoside), extracts of calendula, extracts of arnica and extracts ofAmmi visnagi.

Vasodilatory Peptides

Mention may be made of CGRP (peptides derived from the calcitonin gene),substance P (a decapeptide released by a nerve ending) or VIP(vasoactive intestinal polypeptide) as described in patent applicationEP 225 639, the content of which is incorporated into the present patentapplication by reference.

Other Vasodilators

Examples that may be mentioned include nicotinic acid (niacin) andderivatives thereof, for instance nicotinic acid esters, for examplexanthinol nicotinate, inositol nicotinate; salicylic acid and estersthereof; dihydro-ergotoxine methanesulfonate; dihydro-ergocorninemethanesulfonate, dihydro-ergocristine methanesulfonate, cinnarizine,vincamine, pentoxifylline, bamethane sulfate, bencyclanehydrogenofumarate and beta-pyridylcarbinol.

Mention may also be made of nitrogen monoxide (NO) donors or precursorsand non-polymeric NO liberators; stimulators of NO synthase (NOS)synthesis and/or activity, and mixtures thereof.

Temperature Regulators

The temperature regulator may be a refreshing agent or a heating agent.

Examples of compounds with a refreshing effect that are known includementhol or plant extracts and/or essential oils of mint, of Aloe vera orof ginseng.

The refreshing agent may comprise an endothermic organic salt, forinstance potassium chloride, mint or a derivative thereof, for instancementhol, peppermint, wintergreen, menthone, menthyl lactate, spearmint,mint oil, menthane derivatives, for instance N-substituted menthanecarboxamides and for example N-ethyl P-menthanecarboxamide-3,3-(1-menthoxy)propane-1,2-diol, p-menthane-3,8-diol,menthyl succinate and alkaline-earth metal salts thereof, and mixturesthereof, or a nitrogenous compound such as urea.

Examples of heating agents that are known include camphor and plantextracts or essential oils of eucalyptus or of ginseng.

These compounds are generally used in concentrations ranging from 0.1%to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention may be in solid, pasty or more or lessfluid liquid form. It may be a solid or soft anhydrous gel, a liquidoily phase or a foam.

According to one variant of the invention, the compositions may containless than 5% by weight, less than 3% by weight or less than 1% by weightof water, or are even free of water, i.e. anhydrous.

Solvent Phase

Generally, the composition according to the invention comprises at leastone non-aqueous solvent phase.

This phase is capable of forming a continuous film and contains, as itsname indicates, at least one non-aqueous organic solvent, which is forexample a compound that is water-insoluble and liquid at roomtemperature and atmospheric pressure.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile compound” meansany compound (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contactwith keratin materials or the lips in less than one hour, at roomtemperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile compound is avolatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at room temperature, forexample having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature andatmospheric pressure, for instance having a vapour pressure ranging from0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10⁻³ to 300 mmHg), ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) or ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10mmHg).

In contrast, the term “non-volatile compound” means a compound whichremains on keratin materials or the lips, at room temperature andatmospheric pressure, for at least several hours and which for examplehas a vapour pressure of less than 10⁻³ mmHg (0.13 Pa).

The volatile compound that is water-insoluble and liquid at roomtemperature is for example a cosmetically acceptable oil (fattysubstance that is liquid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure) or organicsolvent. The term “cosmetically acceptable” means a compound whose useis compatible with application to keratin materials.

The volatile oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils or fluorooils, or mixtures thereof.

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil mainly containing hydrogenand carbon atoms and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorusatoms. The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen fromhydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such asbranched C₈-C₁₆ alkanes, for instance C₈-C₁₆ isoalkanes of petroleumorigin (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (alsoknown as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, forexample the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permethyl®,branched C₈-C₁₆ esters and isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, for instance petroleumdistillates, for example those sold under the name Shell Solt® by thecompany Shell, may also be used.

Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile silicones, forinstance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, for example those witha viscosity<8 centistokes and for instance containing from 2 to 10silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxygroups containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oilsthat may be used in the invention, mention may be made for example ofoctamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,dodecamethylcyclo-hexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane,heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl-disiloxane,octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane anddodecamethyl-pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

The non-aqueous solvent phase may also comprise at least onenon-volatile compound that is water-insoluble and liquid at roomtemperature, for example at least one non-volatile oil, which may bechosen for instance from non-volatile and for example glossyhydrocarbon-based oils and/or silicone oils and/or fluoro oils.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may for example be mentionedinclude:

-   hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as triesters of fatty    acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied    chain lengths from C₄ to C₂₄, these chains possibly being linear or    branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are for instance    wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn    oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil,    soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed    oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppyseed    oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose    oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil,    candlenut oil, passionflower oil or musk rose oil; or    caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the    company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol    810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel;-   synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;-   linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such    as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene for    example with a high molecular weight such as parleam, and squalane,    and mixtures thereof;-   synthetic esters, for instance oils of formula R₁COOR₂ in which R₁    represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1    to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain,    which is for example branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms,    on condition that R₁+R₂≧10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl    octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C₁₂ to C₁₅    alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl    isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate,    alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for    instance propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, for    instance isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and    pentaerythritol esters;-   fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched    and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26    carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl    alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol;-   higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic    acid; and mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the compositionaccording to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes(PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, whichare pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups eachcontaining from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, for instancephenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones,phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates.

The fluoro oils that may be used in the invention are for examplefluorosilicone oils, fluoro polyethers and fluorosilicones as describedin document EP-A-847 752.

Thickening/Structuring Agent

The compositions according to the invention may be in anhydrousthickened form, for example in the form of a stick, for instance when itis intended for application to the lips. They may be thickened with atleast one thickener selected from the group consisting of fatty-phasegelling agents, waxes, pasty fatty substances and fillers, and mixturesthereof.

Fatty-phase gelling agents that may be mentioned include optionallymodified clays, for instance hectorites modified with a C₁₀ to C₂₂ fattyacid ammonium chloride, for instance hectorite modified withdistearyldimethylammonium chloride; silica; partially or totallycrosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensionalstructure, for instance those sold under the names KSG6, KSG16 and KSG18from Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C or Trefil E-506C from Dow Corning, GransilSR-CYC, SR DMF 10, SR-DC556, SR 5CYC gel, SR DMF 10 gel and SR DC 556gel® from Grant Industries and SF 1204 and JK 113 from General Electric;galactomannans comprising from one to six and for example from two tofour hydroxyl groups per saccharide, substituted with a saturated orunsaturated alkyl chain, for instance guar gum alkylated with C₁ to C₆and for example C₁ to C₃ alkyl chains, for instance ethyl guar with adegree of substitution of 2 to 3, such as the product sold by thecompany Aqualon under the name N-Hance-AG; gums and for example siliconegums, for instance PDMSs with a viscosity>500 000 centistokes and/or amolecular weight of greater than or equal to 200 000 g/mol.

Silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as thosedescribed in documents U.S. Pat. No. 5,874,069, U.S. Pat. No. 5,919,441,U.S. Pat. No. 6,051,216 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,981,680 may also be used.

These silicone polymers may belong to the following two families:

polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable ofestablishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located inthe polymer chain, and/or

polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable ofestablishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located ongrafts or branches.

These gelling agents are used, for example, in concentrations of from0.2% to 15% of the total weight of the composition.

The composition may also contain at least one wax.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “wax” means alipophilic fatty compound, which is solid at room temperature (25° C.),with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting pointof greater than 30° C. that may be up to 200° C., a hardness of greaterthan 0.5 MPa, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalorganization. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possibleto make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneousmixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to roomtemperature, recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture isobtained.

The waxes that may be used in the invention are compounds that are solidat room temperature, which are intended to structure the composition forexample in stick form; they may be hydrocarbon-based waxes, fluoro waxesand/or silicone waxes and may be of plant, mineral, animal and/orsynthetic origin. For instance, they have a melting point of greaterthan 40° C. and better still greater than 45° C.

As waxes that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of thosegenerally used in cosmetics: they are for example of natural origin, forinstance beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japanwax, cork fibre wax, sugarcane wax, rice wax, montan wax, paraffin,lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, andhydrogenated oils, for instance jojoba oil; synthetic waxes, forinstance the polyethylene waxes derived from the polymerization orcopolymerization of ethylene and Fischer-Tropsch waxes, or alternativelyfatty acid esters, for instance octacosanyl stearate, glycerides thatare solid at 40° C. and better still at 45° C., silicone waxes, forinstance alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones containing an alkyl or alkoxychain of 10 to 45 carbon atoms, and poly(di)methylsiloxane esters thatare solid at 40° C., the ester chain of which contains at least 10carbon atoms; and mixtures thereof.

The compositions according to the invention may for example containpolyethylene wax with a weight-average molecular mass of between 300 and700 and for instance equal to 500 g/mol.

As a guide, the wax may represent from 0.01% to 50%, from 2% to 40% orfrom 5% to 30% of the total weight of the composition.

The compositions may also contain at least one pasty compound.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “pasty substance” isintended to denote a lipophilic fatty compound, with a reversiblesolid/liquid change of state, comprising at a temperature of 23° C. aliquid fraction and a solid fraction. The term “pasty substance” alsomeans polyvinyl laurate.

The pasty compound is for example selected from the group consisting of:

-   lanolin and its derivatives,-   polymeric or non-polymeric fluoro compounds,-   polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds,-   vinyl polymers, for instance:    -   olefin homopolymers    -   olefin copolymers    -   hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers    -   homopolymeric or copolymeric linear or branched oligomers of        alkyl (meth)acrylates for example containing a C₈-C₃₀ alkyl        group    -   homopolymeric and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl esters        containing C₈-C₃₀ alkyl groups    -   homopolymeric and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl ethers        containing C₈-C₃₀ alkyl groups    -   liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between        one or more C₂-C₁₀₀ and for instance C₂-C₅₀ diols    -   esters        and mixtures thereof.

Among the liposoluble polyethers that may be suitable for the presentinvention are for example copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or ofpropylene oxide with C₆-C₃₀ long-chain alkylene oxides, for instancesuch that the weight ratio of the ethylene oxide and/or of the propyleneoxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. Inthis family, mention may be made for example of copolymers such that thelong-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks with a mean molecularweight of from 1000 to 10 000, for example a polyoxyethylene/polydodecylglycol block copolymer such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) andof polyethylene glycol (45 EO) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 byAkzo Nobel.

Among the pasty esters that may be suitable for the present inventionmention may for example be made of:

-   -   esters of an oligomeric glycerol, such as diglycerol esters, for        instance condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which        some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a        mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid,        stearic acid and isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid,        such as like those sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by the        company Sasol,    -   the arachidyl propionate sold under the brand name Waxenol 801        by Alzo,    -   phytosterol esters,    -   non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation        between a linear or branched C₄-C₅₀ dicarboxylic or        polycarboxylic acid and a C₂-C₅₀ diol or polyol, other than the        polyester described above,    -   aliphatic esters of an ester resulting from the esterification        of an ester of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid with an        aliphatic monocarboxylic acid; and mixtures thereof, for        instance        -   the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of            hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions            of 1 to 1 (1/1) or hydrogenated castor oil monoisostearate,        -   the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of            hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions            of 1 to 2 (1/2) or hydrogenated castor oil diisostearate,        -   the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of            hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions            of 1 to 3 (1/3) or hydrogenated castor oil triisostearate,        -   and mixtures thereof.

Among the pasty compounds of plant origin that may for example be chosenmention may be made of a mixture of soybean sterols and ofoxyethylenated (5 EO) oxypropylenated (5 PO) pentaerythritol, sold underthe reference Lanolide by the company Vevy.

The pasty compound may for instance represent from 1% to 99%, from 1% to60%, from 2% to 30% or from 5% to 20% by weight of the composition.

As stated previously, the compositions according to the invention mayalso comprise one or more fillers, for example in a content ranging from0.01% to 50% by weight, or ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight relativeto the total weight of the composition.

The term “fillers” should be understood as meaning white or colourless,mineral or synthetic particles of any form, which are insoluble in themedium of the composition irrespective of the temperature at which thecomposition is manufactured. These fillers serve for instance to modifythe rheology or the texture of the composition.

The fillers may be mineral or organic of any form, platelet-shaped,spherical or oblong. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin,polyamide (Nylon®) powders (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly-β-alaninepowder and polyethylene powder, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers(Teflon®), lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymermicrospheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, forinstance Expancel® (Nobel Industrie) or of acrylic acid copolymers(Polytrap® from the company Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads(for example Tospearls® from Toshiba), elastomeric polyorganosiloxaneparticles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate,magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres(Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, and metalsoaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22carbon atoms and for example from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for examplezinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate ormagnesium myristate, and Polypore® L200 (Chemdal Corporation). Mentionmay also be made of silica-based fillers, for instance Aerosil 200,Aerosil 300; Sunsphere L-31 and Sunsphere H-31 sold by Asahi Glass;Chemicelen sold by Asahi Chemical; composites of silica and of titaniumdioxide, for instance the TSG series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass.Finally, mention may be made of polyurethane powders, such as powders ofcrosslinked polyurethane comprising a copolymer, the said copolymercomprising trimethylol hexyllactone. For instance, it may be a polymerof hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyllactone. Such particlesare for instance commercially available, for example, under the namePlastic Powder D-400® or Plastic Powder D-800® from the company Toshiki.

Dyestuff

For example, the compositions of the invention comprise at least onedyestuff, which may be selected from the group consisting of dyes,pigments and nacres, and mixtures thereof. This dyestuff may representfrom 0.001% to 98%, from 0.5% to 85% or from 1% to 60% of the totalweight of the composition.

For obvious reasons, these dyestuffs are used in the compositionsaccording to the invention so as not to harm the effect moreparticularly desired according to the invention, and which is especiallydirected towards affording a natural makeup effect.

For a composition in paste or cast form such as lipsticks or body makeupproducts, from 0.5% to 50%, from 2% to 40% or from 5% to 30% of dyestuffmay be generally used relative to the total weight of the composition.

The dyes are for example liposoluble dyes, although water-soluble dyesmay be used. The liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, D & C Red17, D & C Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, D & C Yellow11, D & C Violet 2, D & C Orange 5, quinoline yellow and annatto. Theymay represent from 0 to 20% and better still from 0.1% to 6% of theweight of the composition. The water-soluble dyes are for instancebeetroot juice and methylene blue, and may represent from 0.1% to 6% byweight of the composition (if present).

The term “pigments” should be understood as meaning white or coloured,mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in the liquid fattyphase, which are intended to colour and/or opacify the composition. Theterm “nacres” should be understood as meaning iridescent particles, forexample produced by certain molluscs in their shell or alternativelysynthesized.

The pigments may be present in the composition in a proportion of from0.05% to 30% and for instance in a proportion of from 2% to 20% of theweight of the final composition. As mineral pigments that may be used inthe invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide orcerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide andferric blue. Among the organic pigments that may be used in theinvention, mention may be made of carbon black, and barium, strontium,calcium (D & C Red No. 7) and aluminium lakes.

The nacres may be present in the composition in a proportion of from0.001% to 20%, or for example from 1% to 15% of the total weight of thecomposition. Among the nacres that may be used in the invention, mentionmay be made of mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, withnatural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride, such as coloured titaniummica.

The composition for instance contains goniochromatic pigments, forexample multilayer interference pigments, and/or reflective pigments.These two types of pigment are described in patent application FR02/09246, the content of which is incorporated into the present patentapplication by reference.

The compositions according to the invention may also contain ingredientscommonly used in cosmetics, such as vitamins, trace elements, softeners,sequestrants, fragrances, basifying or acidifying agents, preservingagents, sunscreens, surfactants, antioxidants, propellants andfilm-forming polymers, or mixtures thereof.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to selectthis or these optional additional compound(s), and/or the amountthereof, such that the advantageous properties of the correspondingcomposition according to the invention are not, or are notsubstantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

The compositions according to the invention may be manufactured via theknown processes generally used in cosmetics or dermatology. For example,they may be obtained by heating the various constituents to the meltingpoint of the highest-melting waxes, followed by pouring the moltenmixture into a mould (dish or finger stall). They may also be obtainedby extrusion, as described in patent application EP-A-667 146.

The composition of the invention may be in solid, pasty or more or lessfluid liquid form. It may be for example a gloss or a soft paste forcaring for or making up the lips.

The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the examples thatfollow. The percentages are given on a weight basis.

EXAMPLE Gloss

Concentration Components (mass %) Collagen spheres and chondroitinsulfate (Coletica) 0.10 N-Ethyl p-menthane carboxamide-3 0.10Di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxytoluene 0.10 Glyceryl caprylate/caprate¹ 1.50Alumina-treated rutile titanium oxide/silica/trimethylol- 0.10 propaneMixture of polydimethylsiloxane and of hydrated silica 0.20 Fragrance0.30 Hydrophobic fumed silica surface-treated with 5.00 dimethylsilane1,2-Octanediol² 0.50 Polybutene (MW 920) 29.25 Mica 1.00 Preservingagents 0.40 2-Octyldodecanol 10.00 Essential oil of cinnamon 0.90Essential oil of ginger 0.40 Isononyl isononanoate 4.00 Tridecyltrimellitate 13.45 Polybutene (MW: 1290) qs 100¹Capmul MCM from Abitec²Dermosoft Octiol from Straetmans

After applying the above gloss to the lips, swelling of the lips isobserved, affording an appreciable fleshy or pouty effect that isperceptible to the user.

1. A cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up the skinand/or the lips, containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, atleast: one active agent comprising at least one glycol with a C₄-C₁₆hydrocarbon-based chain and/or a hydroxylated ester resulting from theesterification of polyol and/or of C₄-C₁₆ carboxylic acid(s), and oneadditional agent selected from the group consisting of essential oils,agents for promoting cutaneous capillary circulation and temperatureregulators, and mixtures thereof.
 2. The composition according to claim1, wherein the active agent is formed from a hydroxylated esterresulting from the esterification of polyol and of C₄-C₁₆ carboxylicacid(s).
 3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the said esteris a hydroxylated monoester, a hydroxylated diester or a mixturethereof.
 4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the said esteris of C₁₀-C₂₀ and contains at least one fatty chain.
 5. The compositionaccording to claim 1, wherein the said ester bears at least two free OHfunction(s) on its alcohol residue.
 6. The composition according toclaim 1, wherein the polyol is a saturated or unsaturated, linear orbranched C₂-C₁₅ hydrocarbon-based derivative containing at least twofree hydroxyl functions.
 7. The composition according to claim 1,wherein the polyol is a C₂-C₈ hydrocarbon-based derivative.
 8. Thecomposition according to claim 1, wherein the polyol is selected fromthe group consisting of propylene glycol and glycerol.
 9. Thecomposition according to claim 1, wherein the acid is a saturated orunsaturated C₆-C₁₂ monocarboxylic hydrocarbon-based derivative.
 10. Thecomposition according to claim 1, wherein the acid is selected from thegroup consisting of heptanoic acid, caprylic acid and capric acid. 11.The composition according to claim 1, wherein the said ester is selectedfrom the group consisting of monoglyceryl and/or diglyceryl caprylates,monoglyceryl and/or diglyceryl heptanoates, monoglyceryl and/ordiglyceryl caprates, propylene glycol caprylates and propylene glycolheptanoate, and mixtures thereof.
 12. The composition according to claim1, wherein the said ester comprises at least monoglyceryl caprylate. 13.The composition according to claim 1, wherein the active agent is formedfrom a glycol with a C₇-C₁₄ hydrocarbon-based chain.
 14. The compositionaccording to claim 1, wherein the glycol contains a C₆-C₁₄,hydrocarbon-based chain.
 15. The composition according to claim 1,wherein the glycol is caprylyl glycol.
 16. The composition according toclaim 1, comprising from 0.05% to 20% by weight of active agent relativeto the total weight of the composition.
 17. The composition according toclaim 1, wherein the agent for promoting cutaneous capillary circulationis selected from the group consisting of agents that act via stimulationof vasodilation and/or an anticoagulant effect and/or anantihypertensive effect.
 18. The composition according to claim 1,wherein the agent for promoting capillary circulation comprises an agentselected from the group consisting of antihypertensive agents,phosphodiesterase inhibitors, flavonoids or flavoglycosides, glucosides,plant extracts with vasodilatory properties and vasodilatory peptides.19. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least onetemperature regulator selected from the group consisting of mint or aderivative thereof and mixtures thereof, or a nitrogenous compound. 20.The composition according to claim 1, wherein the essential oil isselected from the group consisting of essential oil of cinnamon,essential oil of ginger, essential oil of black pepper, essential oil ofpimento leaves, essential oil of peppermint and essential oil of clove,and a mixture or mixtures thereof.
 21. The composition according toclaim 1, said composition being suitable for topical application. 22.The composition according to claim 1, in the form of a care base, a carecream, a makeup base, a tinted cream, a foundation, a lipstick, a liquidgloss, a lipstick paste, a lip contour pencil, a lip balm or a lipvarnish.
 23. The composition according to claim 1, comprising less than5% by weight of water.
 24. The cosmetic composition according to claim23, said composition being anhydrous.
 25. The composition according toclaim 1, said composition comprising at least one dyestuff.
 26. Thecomposition according to claim 1, said composition comprising at leastone non-aqueous solvent phase.
 27. The composition according to claim 1,said composition comprising at least one thickener selected from thegroup consisting of waxes and pasty fatty substances.
 28. Thecomposition according to claim 1, said composition containing at leastone filler.
 29. A cosmetic method for reinforcing the natural flesh tintof the skin and/or the lips and/or the natural volume of the lips,comprising at least the step of applying on skin a composition asdefined in claim
 1. 30. A cosmetic method for giving the skin of theface, a healthy appearance, comprising at least the step of applying onskin a composition as defined in claim
 1. 31. A cosmetic method forhomogenizing and/or clarifying the complexion and/or for reducing thehazy complexion effect, comprising at least the step of applying on skina composition as defined in claim
 1. 32. A cosmetic method forincreasing the size and/or volume of the lips and/or for modelling themand/or making them smoother, comprising at least the step of applying onskin a composition as defined in claim
 1. 33. A cosmetic method forstimulating the natural coloration of the lips, comprising at least thestep of applying on skin a composition as defined in claim
 1. 34. Acosmetic method for giving a healthy complexion effect, comprising atleast the step of applying on skin a composition as defined in claim 1.35. A method for making up the lips, comprising the application to thelips of a composition as defined in claim 1.